Made it home. We departed Seattle right on schedule; but halfway to Juneau were told we'd have to make a little detour to Sitka to pick-up passengers stranded there when the morning flight to Juneau from Anchorage overheaded due to high winds in Juneau. It was blowing between 30 and 40 knots in Sitka; but snuck in-and-out with no problem. When we landed in Juneau it was not bad at all.
Got picked-up at the airport by my sister who immediately told me dad wasn't doing well...so off to the folks and then a trip to the ER. Dad's doing fine...have to go to the medical supplies place this morning for some more equipment...but his discomfort has been relieved.
Last night it blew about 60 and we had a serious downpour.
So...everything's back to normal!
While everything's fresh in my mind thought I better do a quick trip summary:
Rating System:
* Wouldn't go back/do it again for money or on a dare
***Perfectly acceptable/would do it again
*****You get in my way of doing it again - I'll kill you
WASHINGTON, D.C. What can you say? It's truly a monumental city. I did not envision this trip as a serious D.C. excursion (so won't give it a rating) but did spend a half-day walking the mall. I had never previously seen the FDR or Korean War memorials and I found both of them very much worthwhile. I was disappointed with the World War II memorial. I need to spend a solid week in D.C. - coming in the not too far distant future I hope. Again, a million thanks to my hostess, Martha Stewart, for her hospitality and company. We had a great time visiting.
MOUNT VERNON **** Definitely worth a half-day for anyone visiting D.C. - about 20 miles or so from downtown. The plantation house tour is way cool; but be prepared to stand in line. The house feels much more utilitarian and lived-in than Monteplier or Monticello. There are also many outbuildings that should be seen and extensive trails that take you to a re-creation of a farm site as well as to the wharf on the Potomac. The view from the house of the river and Virginia countryside is spectacular. While Washington's house strikes one as more modest than either Jefferon's or Madison's, I must also note that Washington, unlike the other two, did not die hugely in debt.
CHARLOTTESVILLE, VIRGINIA
Overall rating ****1/2
Accomodations ****1/2 I stayed at the Dinsmore House Inn which was built in the early 19th century and designed by a gentleman of the same name who was one of the premier craftsmen who worked on the remodeling of Monticello and subsequently Montpelier. Both the public rooms and bedroom were wonderful - furnished with beautiful antique furniture - and the breakfasts were excellent. Everything fresh and hot from the oven. The inn is located right across from the University of Virginia and about a mile from the pedestrian mall which has a good number of interesting shops and a variety of eateries.
Monticello ***** Home of Thomas Jefferson. One of the most enjoyable days I've had in many a moon. The high-point of this trip. Monticello is an architectural marvel, beautifully maintained and furnished, and the guided tours were very well done. The grounds are extensive and both the garden and plantation tours were well worth the time. The fall foliage was spectacular; but based on pictures I saw and the descriptions given by the staff a visit here anytime of the year would be most worthwhile. I fully intend to visit again in Spring when the gardens are at their finest. Although located only about 4 miles from downtown, this is a full-day excursion if you want to do it justice.
University of Virginia ***1/2 Definitely worth an hour or so walk around campus. The rotunda and adjacent dorms around the adjacent square were designed, in part, by Thomas Jefferson and built in his lifetime.
Montpelier **** Home of James Madison. The mansion is almost completely restored which involved "deconstructing" the 22 room addition built by the Du Pont family in the early 20th century. The mansion is not yet furnished with suitable art, antiques, or period reproductions thereof - the temperature and humidity need to stabilize for a couple of years before they do so. Archaeological excavations on the sites of former outbuildings are ongoing. The front of the mansion faces east with a spectacular view of the Blue Ridge mountains in the distance. Montpelier is about 30 miles from Charlottesville. I will definitely want to revisit!
Other *** I was only in Charlottesville for two nights and one full day of exploration. There are lots of supposed fine dining restaurants downtown; but I was disappointed with my one attempt at a good meal - an Italian joint that was recommended by the innkeepers.
Other things that may be worth doing that I did not have time to enjoy include Skyline Drive which is reputed to be a wonderfully scenic area as well as a visit to the natural bridge (a natural stone edifice) located about 30 minutes from downtown. In the same area as the bridge there are a number of man-made roadside attractions - the most intriguing of which (to my tastes at least) is called Foamhenge - a full-size replica of Stonehenge made of styrofoam.
WILLIAMSBURG, VIRGINIA
Overall rating ****
Accomodations **** I stayed at a B&B called Magnolia Manor which is a large 1930's era home built in the Colonial style with 4 guest rooms. I had a well appointed suite - a sitting room with gas fireplace, desk, couch, and entertainment center and a bedroom with a huge comfy King sized four-poster. The house is about 1/2 mile from Colonial Williamsburg. Breakfast included a hot dish (kept sufficiently warm but not cooked to order) as well as cereal and bread/muffins. The innkeepers were suitably inobtrusive which can sometimes be a problem at small B&B's.
Colonial Williamsburg **1/2 Something of a disappointment; but I only spent a couple of hours there late on a Sunday afternoon that was blustery and cool. The re-enactment stuff struck me as half-hearted although I did not stay for the 5 PM trooping of the colors which apparently is the show-piece of the whole schmeer. The site is larger than I expected with lots of restored Colonial wood houses and a number of brick structures. And, like the original Colonial Williamsburg, the modern re-creation is enthusiastically devoted to commerce. Like South Franklin in Juneau during the summer; but with a colonial twist.
Jamestown **** There are really two Jamestown attractions. An educational facility that has both a re-creation of the original settlement and an exhibit gallery operated by the State of Virginia and the National Park Service historical property which encompasses the orginal Jamestown site as well as a museum containing artifacts excavated at the site. All are excellent. I would recommend visiting the re-creation first to get a good since of the layout of the original fort and then visiting the historical site. It's a full day excursion to do it right.
Yorktown ***1/2 Like Jamestown, Yorktown has both a State educational facility that includes a re-enactment component as well as a very good exhibit hall. The actual historic battlefield site is under the control of the National Park Service. The visitor's facility at the NPS site is quite small; but there is a 15 minute movie that give you a good context for the battle. Walking the battlefield is definitely the main attraction. Many of the original earthworks are still in place and a number of cannon and siege mortars are placed where they were during the battle. Look out for the very pointy cockle-burr like things. Ouch!
Other *** I had one good meal at a restaurant in the modern market square just outside of the Colonial Williamsburg area - the restaurant was called the Fat Canary. This square appears to be the main collection of eateries and most everything else appeared undistinguished. There may be good restaurants in the new part of town; but I did not go there. I walked by the College of William and Mary but did not really see the whole campus which has several noteworthy historical buildings. I also did not have time to drive down to Norfolk to see the reputedly excellent maritme museum that includes the battleship U.S.S. Wisconsin.
SOUTH CAROLINA LOW COUNTRY My ten days in South Carolina had three distinct components: golfing, dining, and lodging at the Sea Pines resort in Hilton Head, a day trip to Savannah, and two nights in Charleston. The low country is semi-tropical and in it's natural state largely marsh and swampland. You don't want to be here in the summer.
Sea Pines Resort/Hilton Head
Overall rating ***
Accomodations ***1/2 Alison and Dougie had a very nice two bedroom condo at the resort. It was very similar to the condo we have stayed at in Redmond, Oregon - at the Eaglecrest Resort.
Golf **** The only reason to go to Hilton Head is to play golf - and they've got courses 'til hell won't have it. We played the PGA course at Harbour Towne as well as two other courses on the resort. And we played two courses about 30 minutes from the condo - one an Arnold Palmer designed course and one designed by Davis Love III. Three of these courses were too challenging for my game - although I will certainly concede that this may simply be an excuse for my poor playing! All of the courses were beautiful - Hilton Head is so beautifully green. I'll say it again, VERDANT! Lots of birds to watch as well as gators, turtles, and deer (although we didn't see any deer). On the other hand, I can find plenty of good golf a lot closer to home than in South Carolina.
Dining **1/2 Dining was somewhat disappointing. There are a bizillion restaurants on Hilton Head. And although we had several good meals and a couple of excellent courses; none go on the outstanding list. All of the restaurants are located in strip malls tucked-away among the trees - the zoning requirements are foscused on keeping buildings low and unobtrusive. While this makes sense on the one hand, on the other hand it means that the physical structures are boring and could as easily be in California or Arizona - and no views. Also, I suspect that truly adventuresome cuisine is perhaps more difficult to sustain economically in a community that caters almost exclusively to retired, middle class, middle aged, (or older) caucasian golfers.
Other ** For some reason I do not fully understand, the ambience of Hilton Head just doesn't do it for me.
Savannah *** We took a day trip to Savannah, Georgia for a little sightseeing. It was quite fun although the historic district is really quite small though pleasant. The high point, and as a stand-alone matter, a five star event, was lunch at Mrs. Wilkes Boarding House featuring ol' timey low country cuisine with fried chicken to die for. It's definitely going on my favourite dining experiences list.
Charleston
Overall rating ****
Accomodations ***1/2 We stayed at the French Quarter Inn a very cool boutique hotel located in the historic district. A very charming lobby with a rotunda. The rooms were nicer than average but basically standard hotel room.
Magnolia Hall Plantation ****1/2 The plantation house was built after the Civil War (the original was torched by Mr. Sherman's boys) and enlarged in 1891. Still, it is worth the tour and is beautifully furnished with period pieces a number of which are from the Colonial era. But the grounds are what you come to see...both the gardens and the swamp. Gators and tweety birds. And while the gardens were well past their peak, the Camellia were beautiful. We took both the trolley tour of the grounds and the boat tour of the swamp. Both were great. I want to come back in the spring when the garden is at it's peak.
Patriots Point **** A boat taxi will take you across Charleston harbor to Patriots Point, a naval museum featuring WWII ships including the carrier U.S.S. Yorktown, destroyer U.S.S. Laffey, submarine U.S.S. Clamagore, and the Coast Guard cutter Ingham. We spent most of the time on the carrier...Dougie and I had a great time. It was REALLY COOL. We did a quick tour of the sub but did not have time to visit the destroyer or cutter.
Other **** We took a carriage tour of Charleston. Pulled by a couple of mules named Yahoo and Google. The guide had his rap down great and was quite amusing. I found the historic district very charming and did not have enough time to explore. There are a number of museums that, on paper at least, would be worth a visit. And although we had hoped to visit Fort Sumter we ran out of time and did not. Wish I had spent another day (at least) in Charleston.
I will not speak to the dining...I was "dined-out" by this time and didn't join Dougie and Alison on their visits to a couple of highly recommended restaurants. I got the impression that they were somewhat disappointed. I did have a good, but by no means great, supper at the hotel restaurant, Tristans.
So there you have it...the 2008 Fall Victory Tour!
