Goodbye to Hilton Head

Savannah was quite fun. The high point was lunch at Mrs. Wilkes Boarding House - low country cuisine - fried chicken, okra, beef stew, BBQ pork, collard greens, potato salad, and a dozen or so other homey dishes. It was DELICIOUS. I can't remember when I last ate so much at one sitting. I could hardly move for the rest of the day. Alison bought a cook book from the joint so we can do it again!

After lunch we visited a quaint nautical museum in an old Greek revival style home that was originally built in the early 19th century. And then we did a little harbor tour, walked the river front, and then back to the car through the old part of town.

Then back to Hilton Head and another couple of days of golf...yesterday was brutal at an Arnold Palmer designed course that I did not enjoy one whit. I am not a long hitter off the tee. It is depressing when you do not even reach the fairway. But I can live with that. What I cannot endure is putting obstacles...water, waste areas, or sand traps in my way between me and the damn fairway. I mean a water obstacle is fine...but NOT if you have to hit over 150 yards to get over the bloody thing...

But perhaps I'm just grousing...and a piss-poor golfer.

At any rate, today was a ton of fun on another course. Still didn't play worth a damn; but I enjoyed it. Afterward we had pizza and wine. A good day.

I am ambivalent about Hilton Head. It is very attractive in many respects...I've been on several golf courses here that are the most beautiful I've ever seen. And the weather has been quite good...mid-60's to mid-70's and only a few sprinkles. The island is - VERDANT - green 'til hell won't have it and the abudnance of birds is extraordinary. But it is clammy even this time of year and I cannot imagine what it is like with a temperature in the 90's and humidity to match.

It is also extraordinarily homogenous - nothing but white, middle class, middle aged (or older) folks. All the commercial activities are confined to strip-malls which could just as easily be in California, Arizona, or anywhere else leisure-minded Americanos congregate. I would be bored to tears here in a matter of weeks.

We've had a number of decent meals on Hilton Head...but nothing particularly memorable. It is rumored that there are over 250 restaurants on the island - which has a year-round population of about 40,000 - so there is no shortage of eateries. But when your clientele is nothing but middle-aged/middle class white folks - why would you expect interesting cuisine?

On the other hand, for a week of golf - Hilton Head - why not?!!!

I am looking forward to seeing Charleston which is a good sized city. So...I will reserve my judgement on South Carolina as a whole until I have sampled it's wares.

Stay tuned...