Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Booby Buffet

Well, word came down from on high yesterday afternoon…adios Mexico, hola Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Guatemala.

This morning we’re tied up in Puntarenas, Costa Rica. Puntarenas is a small village located on a lagoon with beautiful sand beaches. It’s a regular Holland America port of call. Pretty as a postcard. The shore excursion folks had to scramble to put together a program and by the time it was published late yesterday afternoon I was napping in the Crow’s Nest and missed the opportunity to sign-up. I will go ashore later and take a stroll. It is a drop-dead gorgeous morning.

Tomorrow we’re in Corinto, Nicaragua and the following day Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala. Then four sea days as we head straight to Los Angeles arriving Wednesday, May 6th as originally scheduled.

Yesterday afternoon we were joined by a squadron of Boobies that took station soaring off the bow of the ship. As the 88,000 ton Zuiderdam makes its way through the water, we stir-up all sorts of Booby delicacies. When a bird spots something – most frequently a small flying fish, it folds back its wings and plunges straight into the water. A veritable Booby seafood buffet. From my recliner in the Crow’s Nest I had a front row seat to the Booby show.

Well, I’ve finished my morning latte, so I reckon it’s time to mosey up to the gym. Can’t say I remember ever feeling as relaxed as at present. It takes a week or so to settle into a shipboard routine; but I am now completely adjusted.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

The Big Ditch was Way Cool

I have long since learned that high expectations are, as likely as not, to end in disappointment. So it was with some trepidation I embarked on this cruise knowing full well my longstanding fascination and high regard for the Panama Canal might prove misplaced.

Fortunately that was not the case. The transit of the canal more than lived-up to its billing.

After we sailed through Gatun Lake we passed Gamboa at the east end of the Culebra Cut, the six mile stretch of the canal that was blasted and dug at the top of Panama’s continental divide. Ninety-five years later it is still easy to imagine what life must have been like at the time. The area consists of steep unstable hillsides that might give way at any time – particularly in the rainy season. Even today dredging must go on constantly to keep the ship channel unobstructed. One can almost see TR at the controls of a huge steam shovel…

After passing through the cut the ship sailed on for a few more miles and into the locks at the east end of Miraflores lake. Then across the lake (only about a mile) and into another set of locks that in two stages lowered the Zuiderdam back to sea level and the Pacific Ocean.

The locks remain substantially unchanged from the time when they first began operating. And the system for moving the ships through them is amazing. Lines are passed from shore to ship and small electric railroad engines on each side of the vessel guide the ship forward though the locks. It is big time fun to watch…

The ship’s company was in high spirits the entire day…a veritable carnival at sea. Bars were set-up on the bow and on all decks to keep whistles wet without the need to go indoors. My tolerance for the heat, however, is not high and by noon I could only stand to be outdoors for ten minutes or so at a stretch.

Given the boozy nature of the event, I am surprised that were no apparent cases of heatstroke - although I did see one stout elderly gentleman take a nasty tumble on the stairs that lead into the bar at the Crow’s Nest. He was packed-off to the infirmary. In fact it’s the second tumble I’ve seen at that location – I had to help pick a geezer off the floor a couple of nights ago during cocktail hour.

I note that the Swine Flu scare continues unabated. The only news channel we get on the telly is CNN International which is providing round-the-clock coverage of the outbreak. I understand that the Rotterdam canceled its Mazatlan port call today and the Holland website indicates that they are monitoring the situation closely and further updates will be forthcoming. I’m sure HAL’s attorneys are working overtime. As of this hour we are still scheduled to arrive in Porto Chiapas, Mexico Thursday morning at 8 AM local time.

In other swine-related news, I had an outstanding Asian pork dish for supper last evening.

I have tons of pictures; but they must await my return to Juneau to process and upload them. It would break my bank to try to upload them while onboard.

Monday, April 27, 2009

Pigs Have Wings...

...or at least Swine Flu apparently does. All on board are keenly interested in how this will play out the next several days. Rumors are rife that we will not be docking in one or more of the Mexican ports on the Pacific. Alonzo, my favourite steward in the Crow’s Nest is hoping for a couple of days in San Diego and/or a couple of days in Los Angeles. I’m sure HAL’s legal department is considering all options.

Yesterday, there was some question whether or not we would be allowed to go ashore in Cartegena, Columbia since we were arriving from a Mexican port. In the end, the Captain and the ship’s Medical Officer convinced the authorities that all passengers were hale and hearty – or at least free of influenza. In the end the Columbians relented and we were allowed to take our shore excursions.

I took the basic city tour. It was quite fun – but really hot and humid. The temperature at 8 AM was about 80 degrees with a relative humidity around 75%. By noon we were in the low 90’s as was the humidity. You’re constantly dripping and I had to keep clearing my camera lens of moisture.

Cartegena is today a modern metropolis and huge seaport. It’s been a major port since it was founded by the Spanish in 1533. The old colonial city is beautiful and is ringed by a massive stone wall. There are several huge forts dating back to the 16th century. Way cool.

Cartegena was constantly under threat by pirates, privateers, and various European powers and was sacked on numerous occasions. The imperial skirmishes of the 18th century included the War of Jenkin’s Ear when British regulars along with American colonists from Virginia (George Washington’s brother, Lawrence, participated) failed to take the city due, principally, to the devastation wrought by various tropical diseases on the invading troops.

Last night I attended the sommeliers’ dinner in the Pinnacle Grill. A very good meal served with a half dozen excellent wines. As a singleton, I was seated with four other singles – although I was unique insofar as my single status is the result of civil process as opposed to the attentions of the Grim Reaper. The bachelorette to my left was a sprightly 90 or so gal from Florida. She was still in mourning from the loss of her husband last year – he being a mogul in the drive-in movie business in Ohio in the late 50’s and 60’s. They traveled for 6 months of the year for 60 years or so and had a villa in St. Croix.

My other companions were poor fish by comparison – a widow and widower who also lived in Florida and a boorish gentleman from the interior of B.C. There was much discussion of disease and infirmity and I excused myself as soon as it was polite to do so after the dessert course.

This morning I was up at 6 AM as we approached the Gatun Locks at the eastern end of the Panama Canal. It was really neat going through the locks and into Gatun Lake. The Mimosas were flowing freely along with coffee and fresh baked goods. It was incredibly muggy; but the temperature was bearable as we went through the locks. We are now slowly cruising through Gatun Lake and will enter the Culebra Cut in about three hours. The temperature has now risen considerably and my little verandah is like an oven.

Well, time for a workout and then back to the Observation Deck for our transit of the narrowest part of the canal. We will go through two sets of locks on the western end of the canal before we enter the Pacific and turn the prow north along the Central American coast. Two days at sea and then Mexico – maybe.

Friday, April 24, 2009

Anvils and Stones

Sorry for no report the past couple of days. But I seek to avoid another $100 telecommunications fee if it all possible and therefore am limiting my time on line.

Now where were we? Ah yes, in Veracruz. The most amazing send-off from port. I estimate somewhere between two and three thousand locals crowded the pier in the hours preceding our departure, drinking cerveza, eating food from the vendors, and enjoying the entertainment organized for our visit. We pulled out around sunset with much tooting of the ship’s horn and clapping and waving from the assembled masses on the pier.

The following day in Dos Bocas was similar in terms of a community reception. We were docked in an industrial area – a big Pemex staging area – and the locals were confined to a roped-off area immediately adjacent to the ship.

The local hospitality committee had constructed a dozen or so “grass shacks” and set-up tents filled with peddlers of local arts and crafts. There was the obligatory folk dancing. On the beach on the other side of the ship – no more than a few hundred yards distant there was an all day party for the locals. A large plastic bottle of Corona dominated the beach scene and as we pulled-out of the harbor the folk dancers and entrepreneurs on the one side, and the local beach party goers on the other side all wished us bon voyage with much clapping and general whooping-it-up. Fireworks were discharged. The Captain again went ship’s horn crazy.

As a resident of a community that is much more ambivalent about the cruise industry – it was all quite interesting. It appears that several of these communities are making a big play to bring ships into port on a regular basis.

Yesterday’s stop in Progreso was much more low-key. We were tied-up far away from anyone or anything, were only in port for six hours, and had no welcoming or bon voyage committee. All of the organized tours involved long bus rides. I spent the day getting a sunburn on the Lido deck.

We’re now en route to Cartegena, Columbia. Two sea days. More tough duty. Got up this morning, had coffee, a good long workout, and then a massage at the spa. A whole hour being rubbed with oil and hot rocks by an attractive young woman. The hot rocks may sound like something from the Spanish Inquisition; but trust me…it’s GREAT! After the massage I went up to the Crow’s Nest and promptly fell asleep in a recliner. Like I said – another day at the salt mines.

I continue to pal around with my new found Canadian friends. Night before last my dinner partners included a couple from New Westminster – relative youngsters in their 50’s. The gentleman spent a good portion of the time we spent at table describing his participation in a rather quaint custom that has apparently been practiced in New Westminster for almost 150 years. The ritual involves firing a salute every year on Her Majesty’s birthday.

What’s unusual is that instead of firing cannons or muskets as one might expect, the black powder charge is somehow attached to pairs of anvils. Apparently at some point 150 years or so ago the British withdrew all their cannon from the Vancouver area for service elsewhere. It was left to an enterprising Welsh blacksmith to devise a substitute for the Queen’s salute. The details of exactly how this is accomplished remain a tad murky to me…but I was assured that the end result is quite satisfactory – dogs and cats panic for miles around. And they get to play dress-up and wear redcoats. And they drink a lot of beer. The missus spent most of the meal rolling her eyes…

It is a tad rough today…gale force winds with significant seas and swells. The ship doesn’t really roll or pitch much…just kinda lurches. Although I expect there will be fewer folks at supper tonight than of late. It’s a “formal” night so I’ll have to put on a monkey suit.

It’s hard to believe I’ve been on board for almost a week. The time does fly. I am confident I will endure the next two weeks without stress OR boredom. I think I will work my way down the spa menu…

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

A Very Inaccurate Historical Reenactment

Veracruz - bustling seaport on the Gulf of Mexico. It’s a large city; but not a notable cruise destination. No large cruise ships currently visit Veracruz on a routine basis. Thus, we were received with great enthusiasm when we docked at 8 AM this morning. The Zuiderdam dominates the city skyline and there has been a carnival-like atmosphere on the dock with lots of trinkets, food, and drink being sold not only to my fellow travelers, but also to Mexicans who have flocked to the dock to see the ship.

Upon our arrival we were greeted by a troupe of local kids who performed folk dances for the norteamericanos. They were quite good.

As soon as the kids were done, we were treated to an interesting adult ceremony – the commemoration of the 1914 assault of Veracruz by the United States Marine Corps that occurred 95 years ago today. A Mexican Navy band played. Political speeches were given to an audience of brass hats and other notables.

My Spanish is rudimentary so the bloviations were largely lost on me…aside from some clear references to El Presidente de Los Estados Unidos, Woodrow Wilson.

After the speeches were over we were turned loose on Veracruz – in an invasion quite different from 1914.

This time, the American “troops” were augmented by Canadian forces in some number. Indeed, the Canadians, the First Vancouver Highly Irregulars, secured the left flank of the assault and quickly captured the parking lot and awaiting buses.

Meanwhile, with their right flank anchored to the seawall, an American motorized brigade, consisting of a phalanx of the obese and otherwise infirm riding their Little Rascals, swept down the main boulevard toward the historic center of the city. American infantry followed – bandoliers filled with Aquafina and Nikons and Canons at the ready.

The Mexican defenders, consisting of what appeared to be newly turned-out Special Forces – attractive young women in tropical pink uniforms armed with nightsticks and riding modified golf carts - were swept aside. Within an hour the center of the city was in American/Canadian hands, with a befuddled elderly American couple on every corner and the Canadians settling into the local tavernas for their first pints of the day.

The colonial district of Veracruz is very small. The Cathedral is the most impressive structure (first consecrated as a Parish church in 1734); but in urgent need of massive renovations. Several other 17th and 18th century structures flank the central square. I dutifully took lots of pictures and covered the district from top to bottom in just under two hours. Many of my shipmates continued to scour the public market and storefront shops for plunder; but I elected to return to the ship.

Another long workout, a couple of hours or so reading by the pool, and I am now going to upload this nonsense and perhaps find time for a siesta before cocktails and supper. Shipboard life!

Monday, April 20, 2009

Eat, Drink, and Be Merry...

Day two – at sea, somewhere off the coast of the Yucatan Peninsula. It’s overcast today, about 80 degrees with light winds and almost calm seas. We’re cruising along at about 17 knots and will arrive in Vera Cruz tomorrow morning.


The first three Mexican ports are not normal ports of call for cruise ships. When they are repositioning the ships in spring and fall they like to stop in out-of-the-way places and Vera Cruz, Dos Bocas and Progreso all fit the bill. They just cancelled several shore excursions in Dos Bocas and Progreso due to lack of safe transportation. All of the shore excursions at these ports involve long bus rides…typically four hours…and I don’t believe the buses are of the modern air-conditioned variety. I hope you folks are not reading any Mexican bus-plunge stories over the next few days… The bottom line is that I am being coy about the shore excursions – I have not yet booked anything. But I need to make a Vera Cruz decision here in the next couple of hours.


Yesterday was delightful. Morning coffee, check the news online, a good long work-out, lunch on the Lido Deck, read a book in the Crow’s Nest for a couple of hours and then dressed for cocktails and dinner. A very delightful Beef Wellington last night. Also a very good mushroom soup.


The internet was noticeably slower this morning than it was yesterday. So I’m typing this in Word and will do a quick cut-and-paste into the blog. Minutes are expensive online.


I noted in the Anchorage Daily News that the Alaska Legislature adjourned last night in typically squalid fashion. Sounds like not much happened although I see we do have a new Senator for Juneau in the person of Mr. Dennis Egan. I assume that the Juneau Democrats are reasonably content with this outcome. I also noted that the legislature failed to pass any kind of child health care expansion. Assholes.


All of my compatriots seem to be enjoying themselves immensely. The Canadians have commandeered all of the lounge chairs by the Lido Deck pool and are busy drawing down the ship’s supply of Molson beer. A knot of Swedes spent the afternoon playing a card game of some sort in the Crow’s nest. The sizable obese contingent (pardon the pun) are contentedly mowing through the extensive menu in the Lido Restaurant on a 24-hour basis.
Well, already had my workout for the day so I guess I’ll go mosey around for awhile. I’ve got a wine tasting event in the Queens Lounge at 2 PM. Then perhaps a nap. Life is good.

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Ho, Ho, Ho and a Bottle of Rum

Greetings from somewhere in the Carribean. We sailed from Fort Lauderdale last evening a couple of hours late - the ship was late arriving in Fort Lauderdale yesterday morning due to a medical emergency. It takes a few hours to resupply the ship with all the provisions necessary to keep 1800 or so folks fat, dumb, and happy for 21 days. Finally around 6:30 PM we nosed out into the Atlantic, pointed the bow south and sailed into the sunset. The skyline of Miami and environs was quite dramatic against the setting sun.

During the night we went through the Straits of Florida and this morning we're now headed west towards our first port, Vera Cruz, Mexico. The TV is telling me that we've sailed 246 nautical miles from Ft. Lauderdale, are experiencing moderate (7-12 foot) seas (the ship is steady as a rock), and have 746 miles remaining until we dock in Vera Cruz.

I signed up for internet service...it's expensive; but seems to be working just fine. I will likely post daily.

A few notes about my traveling companions. First, they're old. I would put the median age somewhere around 70. Lots of wheelchairs and motorized conveyances on board.

Second, a majority are U.S. Citizens; but there is a very sizable contingent of our Canadian friends. In one sense the cruise is like a mass deportation...or perhaps more accurately, a mass repatriation, of Canadians from their winter grounds in Florida back to the Great White North. Just like geese. Geese that like beer.

Third, most of my companions are married couples. Last night there was a HAL sponsored opportunity for singles to mingle. I poked my head into the lounge where the event was being held and then ran like a rabbit. The median age of the singles present looked to be about 80. If there are any single women or gay men under 60 on board, they were all prudently drinking alone in their staterooms during the singles event.

Still, a day on a modern cruisehip is truly amazing. And I will have no trouble amusing myself. I'm going to go get some breakfast and then have a workout. The gym is great...has all the same equipment I use in Juneau. All the cardio equipment faces the bow with floor to ceiling windows and a view of the sunny sea. I will take- in the presentacions on available shore excursions later this afternoon. And the food is great, of course.

More later gang.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Fort Lauderdale Miscellany

Time to pack-up and set-sail. But first a couple of miscellaneous observations about Fort Lauderdale...

Yesterday was much fun. I bet I walked at least ten miles or so. It was cloudy and breezy (sorry, no pics); but that made walking much more comfortable and I legged-it up to the the Galleria Mall to buy some sailing books. Got the bio of Dr. Franklin I was looking for, a Rumpole of the Bailey novel, and Carl Hiaasen's latest called "Nature Girl." Should keep me in reading material for awhile.

On my walk to the mall, I came upon a young man standing in the median of the very busy road holding a sign that read "Free Rent." The sign also had the name of a local property management agency and a phone number. As I walked past the kid, I could not help but notice that on the other side of the highway were four obviously homeless people sitting on a bench watching the traffic and the kid waving his sign at oncoming motorists. Hmmmm. You never have a camera when you really need one.

I contemplated crossing over to the sign bearer and pointing out the obvious possibility of doing a deal with the aforementioned street people - although I am quite confident that the kid's employer was not aiming at that particular demographic. But the youngster looked hot and tired and I doubt if he would have appreciated the advice in any event so I continued on my mission...

And speaking of signs... On the ocean front boulevard something approximating the following is posted every couple of hundred yards or so: "Street lights may be dimmed or out between March and October for nesting turtles."

Another hmmm... Given that several thousand homo sapiens are on the beach every day engaged in serious recreation (including plenty of young kids with sand castle construction equipment), I would imagine that street lights would be the least of the problems faced by any turtle intrepid enough to lay her eggs on Fort Lauderdale's public beaches. Still, I guess you have to appreciate the sentiment...


Last evening I walked down the beach and ended up back at Lulu's Bait Shack. It was hopping...the beach crew had completed their outdoor duties for the day and were in high spirits...both literally and figuratively. Lulu's next door neighbor and competitor is the local Hooters; but Lulu's is a great deal more informal and clearly has the competitive edge - including in the attractive server department. I had a great time.

I was sitting at the bar next to a server's station and noticed during the course of the evening that the help seemed a tad cranky. It is the end of the season here in Florida and I thought I recognized the symptoms of overexposure to drunken bozos that also characterizes the hospitality industry staff in Juneau by the end of September. My observation prompted the following exchange:

Elmer (speaking to a very attractive female server person): "Having a bad day?"

Attractive Server Person: "I'm fuckin' tired of all the fuckin' people."

Elmer: "I understand."

In conclusion, I have had a good time in Fort Lauderdale and would be happy to return. Next time I would probably want a car and certainly my golf clubs...

Well, time to pack-up and blow this pop stand. I have to check-out by 11:30 AM...not sure what I'll do 'til boarding time. Go sit at the terminal I guess...

Next Post: Dateline the M/S Zuiderdam at sea...

Friday, April 17, 2009

Governor Palin a Big Hit in Indiana; In Juneau - Not So Much

Tsk. Tsk. Poor Sarah. When the cat's away...

The Alaska State Legislature showed considerable judgement - not to mention good taste - when it tossed her nominee for Attorney General, Wayne Anthony Ross (WAR), overboard last evening. Although I'm sure the reasons for giving WAR the heave-ho varied from member to member and, in many cases had nothing to do with the fact he is a nut, the result is nevertheless most salutary to my mind. I just shared the news here at the Royal Palms with the morning koffee klatch and it was well received. All the guests with whom I have spoken here are daily readers of the New York Times and are disturbingly up-to-date on Alaskan politics. They are not big Sarah Palin fans. But then again, I am in a nest of degenerates.

On the other hand, Sarah was apparently well received in Evansville, Indiana where she addressed some anti-abortion crew.

On balance, she cannot be pleased with either her Alaska or national media coverage the past couple of weeks. Her tit-for-tat media exchanges with her illiterate ex-almost son-in-law a week or so ago struck me as particularly bizarre.

Meanwhile, on the vacation front, everything proceeds as planned - to the extent I had a plan for these days in Fort Lauderdale. Yesterday, I spent a good portion of the day walking the beach front esplanade. The sand and sea are quite beautiful and the beaches were crowded with sunbathers of all ages, shapes, genders, and complexions. Sunbathing is not a lost art in these parts. Wasting away in Melanomaville... Most fun I've had people-watching in years.

I took sustenance - a mediocre jambalaya and several pints of lager - at a beachfront joint called Lulu's Baitshack. You can't drink on the beach so there was a steady traffic of sunbathers to and fro' the beach immediately across the street. By the time I got back to the guesthouse the sun was setting and I called it a day. I felt vaguely disoriented yesterday - a slight case of jet lag I suspect. I slept well last night however and feel fit-as-a-fiddle this morning.

Today I think I'll take a bus to the mall. I need a couple of books for the cruise. I'm almost finished with the biography of Alexander Hamilton. I'm now in the market for a particular biography of Dr. Franklin which will conclude, for the moment, my course of study of the Founding Fathers. However for the cruise I think perhaps something lighter may be in order...

I'll also try to get back down to the beach and take a few pics. I didn't feel like lugging the camera around yesterday.

Tropical flowers at the guesthouse

Kinda clever...


There's a very comfy hammock to the right of this pic


Cheers!

Thursday, April 16, 2009

It's NOT a dry heat...

Greetings from Fort Lauderdale, Florida. It's clear as a bell and should be in the mid-80's about now. And it's a tad moist. I walked a couple of miles down the beach (my guesthouse is about 3 blocks from the main beach drag) and came back one soaked Alaskan. Would've been a Baked Alaskan...but I stopped for some sunblock at a grocery store.

I got here a little after midnight. It was a nice flight down. I spent a good portion of the time chatting-it-up with an attorney from D.C. who is in the construction litigation/claim biz and who also does a lot of unsecured creditor work. In fact his firm has a piece of the Bernie Madoff action...and Lehman Brothers... Not surprisingly, he just hired a couple of new associates. He had just finished a trial in Sacramento and was headed to Miami for some hearing on a big condo project that just went bust. One man's recession is another man's meal ticket...

The guest house is quite nice. The rooms are comfortable although nothing spectacular; but the grounds are way cool. A nice pool and lots of tropical greenery. I had coffee by the pool this morning with a psychologist from Manhattan and a retired guy from Toronto. It's a gay establishment - but very low key. There were some guys partying by the pool at midnight last night; but I was too tired to be titillated. The place feels very comfortable. http://www.royalpalms.com/

I spotted a couple of nice Tikki Bar - restaurant places down the beach. So...I'm thinking maybe a nap in the hammock by the pool and then another sortie down the beach for cocktails and supper. This isn't the real nightlife part of town; but based on the morning recon I think I will be able to amuse myself just fine in the neighborhood. On the other hand, after a couple of hours of Tikki Bar action, who knows? Hah! Odds are I'll be in bed by 9 PM...

Later gang...

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

A Pleasant Day in Seattle

I drove to Ballard yesterday morning for an early lunch with former USMC Drill Instructor Marian Harrigan at a good Italian joint on Market Street. Of course I had to stop-in at the local Tully's to pay my respects first. I noted most of the regulars from previous visits at their assigned duty stations...

Marian and I had a nice visit. I think the world of Terry's mom. She is a firecracker...and doing well after her bilateral hip replacements of last spring. She says she has very little pain.

Marian gave me a bon voyage gift of a book of anecdotes about American Presidents and I will not be bashful about sharing noteworthy stories with you in subsequent blog entries.





Marian arrives with flags flying - this is not a person to be trifled-with...

My lodgings at the Gaslight Inn are very pleasant. I have a big room with a private bath. The house is very nicely appointed - lots of blown glass pieces on display. Beautiful dark paneling in the public rooms and the owners are pleasant but unobtrusive. There's a small swimming pool out back, a nice yard, and a patio with a great view of the Seattle skyline.

Last evening I wandered down 15th to a commercial area where there are a number of taverns, restaurants and other commercial establishments. Had a couple of glasses of wine at a tavern and actually got roped into shooting dice with some folks at the bar for an hour or so. Just playing for drinks. Quite fun. Then a perfectly decent pizza and back to the house where I sat out on the deck and enjoyed the view for an hour or so. A most satisfactory day.


The Gaslight Inn on 15th Avenue on Capitol Hill

In other news, I could not ignore an article in yesterday's Seattle Times with the headline:

Spokane parks to detonate squirrels using propane-fueled explosions

The Rodenator Pro pumps propane and oxygen into the tunnels of squirrels, then sends an electric spark that causes an explosion. The shock waves kill the squirrels and collapse their tunnels — but in a humane way, the agency said.

I noted a follow-up story this morning. The humane society is not amused... I saw a couple of local Seattle squirrels yesterday that were the size of house cats. I'm putting my money on the squirrels.

Oh...and before I forget...please send me an email at elmerlindstrom@gci.net in the next couple of days if you wish to keep in touch while I'm onboard the Zuiderdam. I keep forgetting that I do not have access to my regular email address book while on the road and I will need your address to send emails from the ship. Apparently Holland America has their own email system of some sort...

Well, time to get packed-up. Need to head to the airport in an hour or so. Wheels up for Miami and a five hour or so cross country flight. Next report: Dateline Fort Lauderdale!

Monday, April 13, 2009

Terry and Brent

Only one thing on the agenda today - drive to Seattle and have supper with Terry Harrigan and Brent Long at a joint called Assaggio Ristorante down on Fourth Avenue near the Warwick hotel. Mission accomplished.



Terry and Brent - Together Again for the Very First Time

I had a pleasant drive from Portland to Seattle - aside from the periodic serious downpowers. It's been showery all day in the Northwest.

I dropped my bags off at my B&B and then walked to a nearby Golds Gym for a half-assed workout. The real workout was hustling back to the B&B to change duds and then leg-it down town at the appointed hour. Barely made it.

Brent gave me a tour of his office, 35th floor right downtown. Terry works in a similar avian environment. Great views - but the buildings sway in the wind. Not sure about that...

Assaggio was Terry's find. I do believe that all hands had a decent meal and a good time. God I love vacations!

We shared appetizers that were quite tasty, and then I ordered a very good salad and a very fine veal saltimbocca for the main course. And for dessert - a couple of excellent cannoli. I feel just a tad bilious; but I've been eating pretty high on the foodchain the past few days. Could be burger night tomorrow...

But first- for lunch tomorrow - I will be escorting the Elder Harrigan to a new Italian joint on Market Street in the bowels of Ballard.

A fine day.

Sunday, April 12, 2009

There Goes Peter Cottontail...

Hip, 20-something Portlanders


An excellent supper tonight at the Heathman restaurant. Rabbit with Chorizo, spaetzel, and fresh spinach. The Easter Bunny was quite delicious. In fact, the whole meal was very good…the rabbit and the profiteroles for dessert being the highpoints. Good and good for you.

Last night’s supper was also a treat - dinner at Bamboo Sushi, one of Arthur and Sher Snowden’s neighborhood eateries. In addition to the Snowdens, I was joined by John and Jane – with a special guest appearance by an obviously twitterpated Jim Larson. We had an absolutely delightful evening.
Sher and Arthur - they are headed to Napa Valley next week

Jim is conducting a serious long-distance romance with a gal in Texas. He is clearly a Stage One Lovesick patient. Stage One of the disease, as most of you know (or at least dimly recollect), is where the symptoms include a general light-headedness, euphoria, singing in the shower, and, on occasion, that condition that my doctor now says requires me to immediately contact him if I experience it for more than four hours. Lucky boy…I hope he remains in Stage One for many a moon.


Jim is in love...but not with Jane

John and Jane are in good spirits and coping with the typical travails of parents of a sixteen year old daughter. They should enjoy every minute of it…’cause she’ll be gone before they know it! Jane is planning a trip in the near future with daughter, Morgan, to check-out Seattle University. It will also provide an opportunity for Auntie Terry Harrigan to spoil her honorary niece, Morgan. Also, Jane informed me that an announcement is imminent on the details of the Summer 2009 Juneau mini-reunion to be held at the soon-to-be-completed Casa Kibby. Stay tuned…



John and Jane and an Easter Eve cuddle...

Today, I drove up to Woodland, Washington to visit Brooke Mansfield, an old high school friend. She is doing very well, seems happy in her home and has competent and caring support. She lives in a beautiful new home in a new subdivision with lots of greenery and walking paths. There are two other boarders in the residence. She was very pleased to have company. I had a great time, too, and look forward to a return visit.



Brooke and I visit in the gazebo in her back yard

I’m entering this note from the Great Room of the hotel. It has a nice fire place, a grand piano (they had a jazz trio in their last night), a bunch of comfy sofas, and tables with chairs – they serve tea here in the afternoon. It’s where you go for your wifi action.

Well, think I’ll go back to the room at and have a soak.


Next post: Dateline Seattle!



Saturday, April 11, 2009

Portland

Ah, the City of Roses. No roses yet; but it is definitely spring... The trees are mostly leafed-out and there are flowers in all the pots downtown.

I had an uneventful trip yesterday. Got into Seattle right about on time, bags appeared at baggage claim and got my car without delay. It was a nice drive to Portland from Seattle...made good time except for a little stop-and-go in the bowels of Tacoma. It's always slow through Tacoma... I arrived in Portland during rush-hour; but the GPS guided me unerringly to my destination. It got noticeably more spring-like as I drove south.

The Heathman is a nice place...right now I'm sitting in the main public room which is set-up for afternoon tea. Very relaxing.

Last evening I met the guys and dolls and we went to the Carlyle restaurant in Northwest Portland. I had a very good mussell appetizer and duck for the main course. It was good - but I definitely prefer Paley's Place or the Bluehour. The company was top-flight however. I'm in a good mood for days after spending quality time with Amanda, Leah, and Associates. I was particularly flattered to have Chris and Mathew join us - a notable sacrifice on their part since there was a Trailblazers game on last evening. Portland is all excited about the upcoming playoffs - the 'blazers have already secured a berth.

This morning we were at Macy's for the opening bell. Then the downtown mall. I think everyone was pleased with the results...I even bought a warm-up outfit for the cruise. Will get some more shorts and tees when I'm in Fort Lauderdale.

This evening Jane and John will pick me up and we'll meet Jim Larson and the Snowdens for supper at a Japanese restaurant called Bamboo. Both the gals have heard of the place and say it should be good.

Right now I'm going to go take a little rest (watch the Masters on TV) and then have a quick workout before supper. The fitness center in the hotel is fairly cheesy; but I'll do an hour on the treadmill at any rate.

It is VERY GOOD to be on vacation!

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Modern Travel

I spent last evening in pre-flight checks of my various electronic travel aids. It takes about half-a day to "power-up" these electronic devices.

  • Laptop charged? Check.
  • Windows updates downloaded and installed? Check.
  • Norton Anti-virus downloaded, installed, and full disc scan complete? Check.
  • Garmin GPS navigator charged and map updates downloaded? Check.
  • Camera battery charged? Check.
  • Cellphone charged? Check.
  • iPod synchronized with new tunes? Check.
  • iPod, camera, cellphone, laptop and GPS cords, connectors, and misc. accessories stowed? Check.

Although I will NOT be dragging a bag of golf clubs around this trip, I certainly will not be traveling light. A suit bag replaces the golf bag to fulfill Holland America Line's (HAL) sartorial requirements. Twenty or so pounds of camera gear fit into my Canon backpack. The laptop gets slung over one shoulder. And of course there's a fair-sized suitcase. I need a mule to haul all this crap.

Other preparations continue apace. Yesterday was laundry day. And based on a steely-eyed assessment of my socks and shorts departments, today's activities will include a trip to Freddie's to replenish inventory of said items. Indeed I purged every sock in the joint yesterday - an annual event that I have found to be the most efficient method to avoid stocking-feet embarrassment. Today I will acquire six pairs each of identical blue and brown socks and a dozen pairs of white athletic socks. As is always the case when doing the purge, rogues and rebels were discovered hiding behind the washing machine, under the bed, and in the darkest recesses of the closet. You can run; but you can't hide, boys...

Yesterday also featured three hours of very vigorous scrubbing of Aunt Emilie's kitchen. The cat food on the ceiling (see previous entry on this subject) proved a formidable challenge - even for TSP - my cleaner of choice. The cat food was clearly traveling at a high-rate of speed when it hit the ceiling...

Also on today's agenda are a haircut and some housecleaning. And I have been invited to supper at the Rickey - Elgee manor.

Perhaps I will post again tomorrow; but if not, the next report will be from the City of Roses!

Finally, an item from today's New York Times regarding this week's landmark vote by the Vermont legislature overturning the Vermont Governor's veto of a bill providing for gay marriage. Vermont is the FIRST state to take this step without being prompted to do so by a court ruling of some sort.

It would be nice to think that all the votes cast on this momentous occasion were based on a principled assessment of the issue at hand; but since we're talking about professional politicians, that was, of course, not the case. Nevertheless, I tip my hat to State Representative Robert South, whose stated reason of why he voted to override was extremely principled in the manner that every pol understands:

Representative Robert South, a freshman Democrat from a conservative district, said he reversed his position after 228 of his constituents reached out and urged him to support the override, compared with 198 who urged him to oppose it.

“It was very difficult for me,” Mr. South said, “because the marriage equality bill, as far as I’m concerned, has split the state. I see how close my numbers are for and against same-sex marriage, and it’s divided my constituents, and that’s what upsets me.”

Monday, April 6, 2009

Gotta Get Out of Here

Five days 'til vacation lift-off. Will I make it? I find myself getting more and more excited about each successive vacation - and more and more despondent upon contemplating each return. Gee. Imagine that. And this past marathon of a winter has only enhanced the desire to escape.

One is reminded of the old joke "Doctor, it hurts when I do this..." At least upon my return after this vacation it will be spring. The middle of May through the middle of June is about the best shot for sunshine in this neck-of-the-woods. And Juneau is drop-dead beautiful when the foliage first comes-out.

Checking the weather in the Great Northwest, I note an anticipated high today of 75 degrees in the City of Roses. Amanda checked-in a couple of days ago to announce she was headed to the store to buy bedding plants for her flower boxes. Jane checked-in yesterday to make sure I was aware of Portland's 70 plus degree weekend weather. Friends and family...always there to cheer you up!

Spring is in the air here in the City of Xtra Tuffs too. We've now upgraded from snow showers to rain showers - temps all the way up to the mid-40's. WooHoo! And there are large flocks of geese and mallards on the wetlands. Haven't seen Yogi yet; but the landlord has been airing-out the fortified garbage can pillbox in anticipation of visitors.

Still, about five feet of snow remains in the elders' yard...

Sadly, the fine weather in the Great Northwest is not expected to last long...it's actually been quite chilly in Portland and Seattle of late. However I note for the record (my turn to gloat now, Portlanders) that the expected high in Fort Lauderdale the day of my arrival is 84 degrees. Heh. Heh.

And I fell asleep last night with Holland America's cruise briefing document on my nightstand. Interesting reading...particularly some of the contractual fine print. Like the provision that states that they (Holland America) reserve the right to steam without navigation lights or to sail in convoy upon entering a war zone. Fine by me...

Well, lots to do today. Off to the elders for chores. Then a workout. Then pick-up my dry cleaning, get my prescription reading glasses repaired, hit the grocery store, and pick-up prescriptions for dad. I am going to make a gallon or so of stew this afternoon to take to the folks and auntie tomorrow. Auntie has consented to allow me to scrub her kitchen ceiling tomorrow. The cat food on the ceiling should have set-up pretty good by now...kitty cat food concrete.

Later gang...

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Remembering the 80's...

So far on this blog I have been largely silent about the 1980's. This is for three reasons: 1) little photographic evidence of my 1980's life exists (this is probably a good thing); 2) my memory of these years is a bit hazy (this is also probably a good thing); and 3) it was my 20-something decade which could prompt a 50-something person to indulge in all of those woulda, coulda, shoulda sort of musings...

And I will not go there...

Nevertheless, one cannot ignore an entire decade. And at the time it seemed quite delightful in many respects. I was working for the legislature...in fact at the apex of the legislative staff pecking-order for much of the decade and it was truly an education. Although on the other hand - not necessarily something you would wish on your children.

During the session I would frequently go to work at 8 AM, work until 10 PM, and then whoop-it-up downtown until 3 AM. And then go home, get a couple of hours of sleep, and get up and do it all over again. And again and again....

I would like to think - that on balance - I served the State well. But I am also acutely aware of how we (collectively) pissed-away a lot of opportunity with our oil bonanza. And I was certainly in there pissing (on behalf of my boss, of course).

Such it is...as my Grandma Newman used to say....


Vice-Chairman of the House Finance Committee, Pat Pourchot, and Elmer discuss the budget very late one evening...at least I THINK that's what we were doing...

On the personal front, I have equally ambivalent memories. Lots of time spent at Louie's Douglas Inn. Lots of time spent talking politics - largely about things that were HUGELY important at the time; but now quite rightly long-forgotten.

Late in the decade I did fall seriously in love for the first time...with a gal named Carol Carroll. It was wonderful...

Fall 1988 party in Gustavus. From left to right: Tracie Bills, Carol, Carroll, Jerry Schilz, Elmer Lindstrom, and Kaye Schilz.


Fall 1989 party in Gustavus. From left to right: Gary Furlong, Elmer Lindstrom, Carol Carroll, Jay Hogan, James Elgee, Alison Elgee, and Doug Rickey.

The parties in Gustavus were end-of-summer dances. Jay played in a Big Band group that came over from Juneau. They were quite fun.

At the end of the day, Carol broke my heart. But after 20 years I only remember the fun times (there were many - at least from my perspective). And I suspect that a couple of decades is about right for somebody of my general temperament, proclivities, and prejudices to deal with these things...

So much for the 80's...

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Budget Analyst Makes Good

The past couple of months I've had the pleasure of corresponding via email with Bob and Lee Grogan formerly of Juneau and presently of Franschhoek, South Africa. Bob was a budget analyst colleague of mine at the Division of Legislative Finance and Lee taught at the State's correspondence study program.

They subsquently moved to Sun Valley, Idaho and at some point began spending time in South Africa. Sounds like they are two mighty happy expatriates.

Bob was always an inveterate doodler - who amused us all with cartoons depicting the politicians of the day. He is now a serious landscape artist and art teacher - and President Pro-Tem Emeritus of the Elmer Lindstrom "Is There Life After Government Service Association" - (LAGASS).

Bob's work includes landscapes of Alaska, Idaho, and South Africa. Check-out his website at:
http://robertgrogan.com/


Moonrise with Oaks by Robert Grogan


In other news, Alaska and national political pundits are all atwitter over the dismissal of criminal charges against former U.S. Senator Ted Stevens. The Republicans, of course, are portraying this as complete vindication of Uncle Ted - that he was railroaded. This is not an opinion I share. The Attorney General's finding of prosecutorial misconduct should not lead one to conclude whether Uncle Ted did or did not, in fact, commit the offenses for which he was convicted. What really worries me is that the incompetence of the prosecutorial team may well derail other ongoing investigations including that of Uncle Ted's dirtbag son, Ben.

Meanwhile, our Governor continues to demonstrate a less than sure-footed talent for dancing on the national political stage. I was amused by a recent article in Politico wherein her partisans suggest her problems all stem from poor staff work: http://www.politico.com/news/stories/0309/20603.html

A much more obvious explanation, in my mind at least, is simply that she is a light-weight her own self...and at the end of the day naked ambition and a certain animal magnetism are no substitutes for substance. Although there is certainly plenty of glaring contrary evidence in many quarters that suggests I may well be wrong about the no substitute part. Hah!

Finally, a delightful picture from today's Oregonian taken at Portland's new service animal training center.

Wichita, a guide dog in training. This looks like one mighty trustworthy dog!

Well, off to the elders. It's quite nice today and I may take my life into my own hands and attempt to replace the cap on the chimney of the folk's wood stove. I usually change the cap every six weeks or so; but there's been snow and ice on the roof for months and I have been unwilling to risk life and limb. There is now a clear path to the chimney. We had to stop burning wood a couple of weeks ago - when the chimney and cap get too dirty smoke will back-up into the living room whenever you open the woodstove's door.

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

A Quick Note

Another three inches of snow on the deck this morning...and that's no April Fool's trick. And down in the mid-twenties tonight. Will it never end?

Gotta run this morning...it's shower day for the Old Coot and he likes to get the show on the road sooner rather than later.

Yesterday I made a dental appointment for Dad. And, as with most medical related decisions involving the old boy, we took a circuitous route in arriving at an agreed-upon approach.

He has been wearing his partial plate of late; but there is a sharp edge to one of the clasps that is poking his cheek and driving him nuts. Yesterday, against EVERYONE'S advice he made a stab at fixing it himself with a file. I think the fittings for the dentures are made of titanium...or something equally sturdy and after ten minutes or so of filing and cursing the appliance was not even scratched. He then reluctantly consented to a visit to the dentist.

I need to get organized for my vacation - we're now in the ten day count. Today, I need to take a couple of suits and jackets along with an assortment of ties to the dry cleaner. Holland America still insists on dressing for dinner...jackets and ties are required for a number of suppers. I'm trying to remember if I've worn a tie since I retired, and I'm drawing a blank.

Yesterday evening Alison, Dougie and I met my old boss, Jay Livey, at the Prospector for a couple of glasses of wine. Jay's working for Senator Lyman Hoffman under contract. He seems to be enjoying it...he has known Lyman for decades...Jay worked in Bethel back in the early 70's. Jay's wife, Vivian, is teaching an education course or courses at UAS this semester. They'll head back to Seattle once the legislature and UAS adjourn from their respective terms.

Well, gotta run gang.