Sunday, March 16, 2008

Let it Snow, Let it Snow, Let it Snow...

What a difference a day makes. It was in the mid-60's yesterday; and today it snowed - off-and-on all day. And tonight it's freezing.

Yesterday I did about 10 miles of hiking on various trails. Took a ton of red rock pics...but I won't bore you with any more until I can more thoroughly photoshop them. My dogs are yapping. My hands are still swollen and blistered from golf; and now my feet are in the same condition. Gotta toughen up!

But today was a horse of a different color. I drove up to Jerome, Arizona - about 30 miles southwest of here. Sedona is about 4500 feet in elevation and Jerome about 5300 feet. It was snowing like hell by the time I got to Jerome. Visibility about 1/4 mile. I didn't really know where I was going; so almost pulled-off the highway at one point to wait for the snow to subside.

The trip was well worth it however. Jerome was a big mining town up until the 1950's, became a ghost town, and has now been reclaimed by a bunch of entrepreneurial minded old hippie types. Although from what I can tell a lot of the old hippies have become fairly gentrified.

All the major structures date from the 1890's through about 1920. In the snow, it actually reminded me a lot of Juneau - it's built on a steep hillside with winding streets. And while many of the establishments have been renovated and are on the National Historic Register; it's more to a standard of Juneau 30 years ago than to Juneau's current St. Thomas/Cruise Ship look. In other words, Jerome retains a certain degree of seediness that I always find appealing. It's definitely a work in progress.

I was wearing my deck shoes which are shit in the snow so immediately legged-it into a restaurant for shelter and coffee. I think the place was called the Red Rooster. I got there just as the breakfast crowd was in full-swing so sat at the bar and ordered breakfast. I had an absolutely fabulous crepe Lorraine - a crepe topped with scrambled eggs, spinach, bacon, tomatoes, and Guyerre.

The clientele was a mixed bag. Tourist types like me, some respectable looking locals, and a couple of young musicians who I expect work one of the local gin-joints and had clearly pulled an all nighter. The young gals behind the counter were delightful. I found the ambience quite charming and the whole town appealing.

I poked my head into a fair number of galleries. A mixed bag. A lot of predictable stuff - think of typical Alaska gallery prints where coyotes are substituted for bears and red rocks for glaciers; but also a fair amount of whimsy. If I owned a house; I might even have bought something.

I imagine that Jerome's charm in my mind is partly by way of contrast with the main gallery district in downtown Sedona which is all in red-stucco modern structures, incredibly crowded, and impersonal. Sedona has a bunch of quirky folks wandering around - psychics, new age types, and the like; but my tastes run to the more traditional eccentrics of which I suspect Jerome has more than its fair share.

Bottom line: Another great day.

Tomorrow I'm off to Phoenix and will overnight at an airport hotel. I've got a Tuesday morning flight to Seattle and will immediately drive to Portland. Looking forward to seeing the gals and all my other Portland buddies.

More later...

Buenos noches.

3 comments:

Susan said...

There is also a Red Rooser in Las Vegas. It is a swinger's club (no - I haven't been there but have heard of it). Is the Red Rooster in Jerome affiliated with the Red Rooster in Vegas? And, if so, can you give us details about what you did there? Inquiring minds need to know!

Elmer Lindstrom said...

Not as far as I know. The Red Rooster in Jerome is owned by a French Canadian old hippie who goes by the name "Joe."

On the other hand Jerome used to be quite the hot spot. They ran 3 shifts a day and hot-bunked folks in the hotels. My mom told me last night that my Uncle Monk (long since deceased) worked there for a number of years.

On the other - other hand, the two young musician guys I was sitting next to at breakfast, struck me as willing to consider any reasonable proposition.

Would you like a reference?

Elmo

Susan said...

I don't need any references. Just check out my website - foragoodtimecallsusan@lol.com